Types of Obijime


Within the world of obijime, there are a handful of distinct obijime types one can select to wear. One thing I would like to make clear is that the type of obijime in of itself does not indicate the formality nor seasonality. Thickness, colour and/or pattern will tell you instead. It’s important to remember that each obijime has their own set of characteristics that make it suitable for one kimono outfit but not all.

So what types are you able to find and wear? Most obijime will fall under the following 6 categories. They sometimes may overlap another category because of their shape.
– Flat
– Round
– Square
– Furisode
– Marukuge
– Sanbuhimo

Flat Obijime

Flat obijime (平組/Hiragumi) are one of the two most common shapes of obijime that you may come across. Made through the use of a Marudai or the bigger Takadai-braidingstands, there is an endless variety of patterns as well as weaves to be found. Both narrow and wider flat obijime are worn, depending on the occasion you are wearing kimono to.
It is said that a flat obijime is considered more formal, though this may depend on the school. These days, there are just as many round obijime in gold and/or silver available for purchase as well.

Round Obijime

The second most common shape of obijime is the round obijime (丸組/Marugumi). Like the flat obijime, there are a variety of weaves within round obijime as well. Additional patterns like leaves or flowers are less common due to the weave. Within round obijime, the weave mostly predicts the outcome.
Comparatively to flat obijime, round obijime are a little easier to tie due to their shape. Also these enable you to tie slightly uncommon knots more easily compared to the flat braided obijime.

Square Obijime
(FOTO COMING SOON)
A third standard shape is the square obijime (角組/Kakugumi). Although flat and round obijime are the most prevalent shapes, the square one is worn too.

Furisode Obijime

Furisode obijime (振袖帯締め) are the fun ones. Within this category there are a few different options one can choose from, though there is always some silver or gold incorporated as they are meant to be worn on special occasions. The colours of these can be quite bold & fun.
The most common obijime for furisode is a type of obijime where one end is split into multiple tails, allowing for creative tying by the dresser. Though there are other types as well. Various round braided obijime as well as marukuge obijime.
In general, furisode obijime are on the slightly wider end. This is due to the formality and this will set them apart from obijime worn at casual events.

Marukuge Obijime

Marukuge obijime (丸ぐけ) are obijime made from fabric and padded with wadding in order to give them shape. They’re most commonly worn with more formal ensembles like Furisode and bridal wear, but you are occasionally able to find some narrower ones for casual wear too. The narrow ones (0.5-1cm in width) are more rare compared to the formal ones (1-2cm in width).
Marukuge obijime, due to their construction, can have embroidery on the fabric as well. This is most commonly found on marukuge obijime for bridal wear.
Out of all the obijime, this is the type you yourself could make at home too. As long as you are using a lightweight plain weave fabric with no stretch, any fabric is suitable.
The ends on marukuge obijime have plenty of variety. Some have simple tassels made from thread, but some have wooden beads or even fancy gold/silver tassels, especially formal marukuge. Bridal marukuge may not even have tassels at all!

Sanbuhimo

Sanbuhimo (二部紐/二分紐) are narrow and slightly shorter obijime which you wear with obidome-brooches. The width and length of sanbuhimo are due to the fact that obidome have to slide onto them. Regular obijime would be too large and the obidome won’t be able to slide onto them like they would with a sanbuhimo.
The word sanbuhimo stems from the Japanese measuring unit “BU/分” which is about 3.03mm in width. San = Three, so this translates to a “three BU” wide cord. Around 9mm in width altogether.
Another two obijime that is a little less known but comparable to the sanbuhimo are the “nibuhimo/二部紐” or “two-bu-cord” as well as the “yonbuhimo/四分紐” or “four-bu-cord. Whereas the sanbuhimo is made three-bu wide, the nibuhimo is only two making it around 6mm in width with the yonbuhimo being around 12mm in width.
One thing to note is that yonbuhimo may be closer to regular obijime in width compared to sanbuhimo, they are however much shorter compared to regular obijime when one puts them side by side.

L -> R: Nibuhimo (6mm), Sanbuhimo (9mm) & Yonbuhimo (12mm)

A last, though not often considered obijime, cord that is worn as an obijime is the “Kazarihimo/飾り紐” or “decorative braiding cord with tassels”. They are sometimes worn with yukata as an extra accessory. Obi worn with yukata are tied in such a way that they often don’t need an obijime for support and therefore a kazarihimo is considered an accessory or decoration only.
When wearing furisode, they can be used as an extra addition to the obi knot/musubi. The kazarihimo is then tied in such a way that it doesn’t contribute anything to the construction of the knot itself or holding it in place.


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